Leaving Gongju after a meal, we head southwest to Buyeo County and spend some time at Busosan Fortress. Its green-canopied gravel paths and river overlooks draw a lot of crowds, and can lead to salmon-like walks against never-ending rapids of people. We dejectedly walk to the car and remember there’s one more stop before going home. The weekend isn’t over yet and we drive towards Buyeo’s collections of tombs that took me back to our weekend in Gyeongju.
Buyeo Tombs and Grassy Fields
This travel guide is part of our series on South Korea Travel and East Asia Travel. It was originally created on Jun 20, 2015. It has been maintained and updated (as of December 28, 2018) to reflect current viewpoints and travel trends.
How to see the Buyeo tombs
- If traveling from Seoul, take an intercity bus from Seoul Nambu Terminal to Buyeo’s Bus Terminal.
- From there, take local Bus 701 or 709 to Wangneung Parking Lot Bus Stop. It should take about 20 minutes to get there from Buyeo Terminal.
- Walk across the street to the entrance and enjoy! The entrance is across the street.
- Open from 8 A.M – 6 P.M. throughout the year and closes at 5 P.M. during the Winter (November – February)
- Phone Number (Korean) – +82-41-830-2511-2
Our Story
Road signs agree with the GPS and all of a sudden, there’s no confirmation but our trusty machine says this is the end. There’s nothing but a big field and what looks like a tomb in the distance. Parking the car on the side of the road isn’t a big deal in Korea, especially not in the countryside.
We get out and walk through a small garden that resembles a disused rice plot and walk towards the faraway tomb. There’s some ugly construction on the opposite side but I don’t care because in front of it, there’s a massive patch of green. I’m home, walking through fields while remaining mindful of snakes and bugs. The mountains in the background are as green and beautiful as ever.
Then we see a tour group full of kids heading towards the tomb and I’m back in Korea. Eventually, I notice that this isn’t the only tomb in the place and that it’s just a demo. These burial mounds “are believed to be” for kings from the Sabi Period of the Baekje Dynasty (538-660), and they’ve thankfully (for visitors) made it through all these years.
Taking a right and over a small bridge, we find them. Seven royal tombs all grouped together in a beautiful collection, overlooking the most beautiful field I’ve seen in years. Why am I so amazed by this? We both do a quick dive and just lay there like kids would for hours until their parents shout that it’s time to go home.
We’re not alone and that’s okay. Kids and adults alike are walking around and in love with this place. Just lying in that field doing snow angels, I’m in heaven. I remember childhood days when life wasn’t so serious and full of worry. Just like any kid, I’d go outside and rough up my body and clothes. Anything less would be failure.
This is the perfect end to the weekend, I say. We sit in the grass and snap silly photos of each other just enjoying the rest of this moment. Tour groups of kids walk by and tell them about the long-gone Baekje. One child ignores his guide and runs around for a bit, until finally giving in and coming back to the group. I feel you, kid. I’m right there with you. Keep running!
Seeing that field and feeling more than okay in it, I know that it’s time to go home. That’s too bad, because it was good to get away for a minute and be kids again. Gongju helped me realize why I’m living in Korea but right now, I’m forgetting about the everyday routines that control me these days. Surrounded by streams of information and worry, I’ve become too serious. The Buyeo tombs give me a chance to act ten years old again in a massive field with nothing to see but that and the clear blue sky above.
It’s great to be a kid again.
Do you live like a kid sometimes? Do you need moments like these?
What a touching post. I really love moments when you can just feel like a kid, in awe of the world, again. I certainly would react the same way as you did, laying in the grass! I was recently in Wando and my friend and I (perhaps after some soju) decided to run into the ocean fully clothed at night. It was definitely a moment to relive my teen years!
Ah man, this post got me aching to feel like a kid again. I feel like I’ve been so serious lately with work, it’s been hard to find worry-free moments.
I haven’t been to the Buyeo tombs, it seems like a place I would really enjoy! Combining two of my favorite things: the outdoors and history. Thanks for the read!
Yo Nathan! Hope you enjoyed the read. Makes me happy that a traveler like yourself likes to stop and enjoy the little things as well, haha. What am I saying? Of course you’d like these kinds of places. I should’ve known you were a kid at heart!
Korea’s like a walking history book to me and it’s kind of overwhelming sometimes. So many stories behind every place. I hope you get to make it out here some time. Let me know if you write about it. I’d love to read it.
Thanks for commenting, Nathan! I hope you have a wonderful day.
For awhile I thought I was reading poetry.
Maybe my kids feel like you do whenever I ask them to hurry up and head home while they enjoy exploring the little hills here in Sangam-dong. It’s home for them and in their perspective a vast world to observe and take joy from:-).
Haha, I bet they do! I know that feeling and get it everyday before driving to work. Thanks so much for your kind words about my writing. I hope you enjoyed and hope you have a wonderful week, Wendy.
Take Care.
I’ve never heard of this place, but it looks so similar to the tombs in Gyeongju…I didn’t even know tombs existed outside of Gyeongju.
Be mindful of snakes…this is ALWAYS the first thing that pops into my head when walking through long grass. It freaks me out just thinking about it. It also usually prevents me from walking through long grass!
I feel you on the snakes bit, Rafiqua. I’ve only seen one or two here but it’s a concern that goes back to our time living in West Virginia and when going outdoors in the U.S. There, you have to be mindful of snakes, ticks, and just about any other animal that seeks your blood. I don’t have to tell you that, since you’ve got your own threats in S.A.
Have you had any experiences with snakes here? I bet you laugh at them in comparison to the stuff you find back home. I always get excited when I see a squirrel, sadly. Haha.
Thanks for commenting, Rafiqua. I hope you have a wonderful day and rest of your week!
This reminds me of the saying “stop and smell the roses” but in your case smell the grass. It’s nice to unwind sometimes and just pause from our daily busy routines. I too am a parent and raising a 2 year old son. Fortunately, he loves to travel just as much as I do. Even my husband thinks I try to do too much and pack as much site seeing in my time here in Korea.
I was fortunate enough to visit Gyeongju and the tombs in that city definitely reminds me of this one in Buyeo County. Glad to see you were able to enjoy your weekend and live life a like a child again.
Hi Charisse! I’m guilty of the “do too much” bug too so don’t worry, you’re not alone! Honestly Gyeongju is a much better place and has lots more to do in a closer-knit area. These tombs were a bit of a drive away from the other sites in Buyeo, so bring your car if you’re coming! Thanks for commenting, Charisse. I hope you have a wonderful day!
YESSSS!! I’m always looking for an excuse to act like a kid and revisit my youth. After living in what seems to be a concrete jungle, I’m certain a trip to visit these tombs would make me feel the same way! We have a few of these tombs in Daegu, but the day I visited wasn’t very nice and the grass was still brown. I hope to visit again during the ‘green’ season, walk (or lay) among them, and enjoy the peace.
You’ve really given me lots and lots of travel ideas for Korea–as always-thank you very very much for sharing your experiences!
Wow Lindsay, didn’t realize there were tombs there in Daegu but I guess they’re everywhere here huh? I bet now until the fall would be the perfect time to visit those tombs but man, that heat has been rough. I always hear students and locals say that Daegu is the hottest city in Korea. If it is, I hope you’re staying cool.
I appreciate your compliments and hope that you’ll keep finding inspiration through my posts. Take care and stay cool, Lindsay.
I didn’t realize they were the tombs until you mentioned it. I just turned 30 this year and have two kids, but there are times when I just want to be lazy and go back to the past and just chill. My life has totally changed now. I’d like to be able to relax as you did. Glad to see that that cheered you up. 🙂
Hey Jackie! I hope you get to be a kid yourself, while managing your own children. I know it can be tough but hopefully you can turn the clock back a bit and just let go:)
If you’ve got a car, Buyeo and these tombs are easy to reach. Thanks for commenting and I hope you have a great weekend!
They look like very surreal things to be in the presence of. I love that sort of ancient history- nothing much of an explanation is left behind, but there’s enough to make you question. I’m glad this place cheered you up anyway!
I agree with you, Katie. History is something I truly love and even more so, when the story isn’t completely clear. Buyeo was a much needed break from crowds and chaos. Oh, and a chance to perfect my snow angels for winter! Thanks for commenting!
Love it, those cutie hills. I wouldn’t think they are tombs.
Thanks so much! It was a wonderful place. Hope you get to visit:)