Revisiting Korea’s Boseong made me think about trips taken to other familiar places. In Japan, a visit to Hiroshima will lead to new discoveries while rekindling past memories. Out with the old, in with the new means a journey out to the nearby island of Itsukushima, popularly known as Miyajima. A streetcar later and we set foot on the boat for an exciting… 10 minutes. That’s how our Miyajima day trip official begins.
Taking a Miyajima Day trip with Friends
This travel guide is part of our series on Japan Travel and East Asia Travel. It was originally created on May 23, 2014. It has been maintained and updated (as of December 28, 2018) to reflect current viewpoints and travel trends.
Getting to Miyajima
Courtesy of Japan Guide
Train and Ferry
From Hiroshima Station, take the JR Sanyo Line to Miyajimaguchi Station. (25 minutes, costs 410 yen one way and is covered by the Japan Rail Pass. That’s the route that we took.
The route we took was via the tram line number 2 from central Hiroshima bound for Miyajimaguchi. It’s slower but costs only 260 yen one way. Also, it’s NOT covered by the Japan Rail Pass but that wasn’t a problem for any of us. We didn’t use one while staying in Japan.
From Miyajimaguchi Station, it is a short walk to the ferry pier. Two competing ferry companies operate from this port: JR and Matsudai. Time (10 minutes) and Cost (180 yen one way) are the same for both. The Japan Rail Pass is valid ONLY on JR ferries.
Direct boat
For those looking for more boat action, you can go directly from Hiroshima Peace Park and get to Miyajima in 55 minutes, at a cost of 2000 yen one way or 3600 yen round trip. A shorter distance boat connects Miyajima and Hiroshima Port after 25 minutes and costs 1850 yen one way. The Japan Rail Pass does not apply on these boats.
Our Story
Deer Island
Soon after arriving, herds of deer flock to greet us… or, beg for food. The deer on Miyajima—and in many other places in Japan—are known as sacred messengers of Shinto gods. Signs warn visitors not to feed them but the deer are quite persistent. Putting the food down while taking off my jacket almost costs me a meal, as one particular deer sensed my carelessness from afar. Flashbacks of deer in Nara—a historic Japanese city—come to mind, where one took a chunk out of my sweater trying to get to the (park-endorsed) biscuits I was feeding them.
Seriously, these deer act like they own the place! But if you were a messenger for the gods, wouldn’t you deserve such a marvelous places as Miyajima? After the brief snack, we take in most of the sites thanks to an early arrival. We’ll stay until around 2-2:30 when the crowds really start picking up and even the deer seem annoyed at the site of so many people. The masses really do come to Miyajima.
Itsukushima Shrine
Itsukushima Shrine is the big draw and a beautiful structure, built over the water with its famous gate an icon many people know about through pictures and Miyajima promotional guides. Walking around the temple reminds me of so many thoughts and experiences associated with life in Japan. Emotions of times long forgotten come back and overcome me for a moment. Closing up and shutting those feelings away is almost too difficult. I really feel welcome here and am so happy we made time for a Miyajima day trip!
The surroundings are so warm and friendly but the people above all really made this place seem like home. They present such grace and courtesy, always saying “Excuse Me.” So passive and deferential. I remember what it was like being here so long ago while studying abroad and trying to find my way. Outside of the five-storied pagoda, an old man approaches me and talks about how this day is just perfect. He complains of similar haze and smog that we deal with in Korea. He had just finished a hike to the top of Miyajima’s famous Mt. Misen and notes how visibility is crucial to those who reach the top.
Welcome Island
Thankfully for both of us, there’s no problem in taking in the beautiful scenes at any spot on this day. We talk for some time before I catch up with my friends but not before thoroughly thanking him for his courtesy and desire to talk with me. Nature influences people. We stopped at Senjokaku, a wooden structure originally established yet unfinished by one of feudal Japan’s most famous generals—Toyotomi Hideyoshi. Thanks to his successors’ neglect of the building, the lack of a true ceiling allows a breeze to fill the building. Add in its proximity to the water and the result is a cool resting place for those in need of a break.
After a brief rest there, we eat some lunch and walk around the souvenir shops. Even though going back to Hiroshima will lead to some truly memorable sights, Miyajima remains on my mind ever since leaving. Maybe all islands possess something special but this one definitely got me in so many ways. Whether it’s the fact the locals know you want their life and are just teasing you with the laid back approach associated with the lifestyle or if it’s something else, I’ll never know.
I long for another visit to that beautiful place. If you live in Hiroshima or are staying there, a Miyajima day trip should make your list of things to do. When I come back, I’d like a little more time to walk around and maybe a hike to the top of Mt. Misen. Regardless of my regrets and hopes, this “Welcome Island” will truly require a revisit.
In 2002 I was visiting my daughter who had a year teaching contract in Wakayamashi. The days she worked, I travelled and discovered more natural beauty in Japan than I ever expected. One memorable trip took me by train to Hiroshima where I made sure to visit Miyajima, truly lovely.
Since then I’ve discovered another place with a similar feel–in China. It’s a little sub-tropical island called Gulangyu, off the coast of another island called Xiamen (across the strait from Taiwan). The province is Fujian. I went in late January when it wasn’t so busy. Gulangyu’s nickname is “the Isle of Pianos.” In addition to its musical history, the little island has lush gardens, beautiful beaches and many old “abandoned” colonial embassy buildings. There is also much Buddhist presence in this South-east area of China, which helps to impart a feeling similar to Miyajima.
I really loved this comment when you sent it to me originally. This sounded like such an experience. I hope you have pictures to share.
Thanks again.
Great post, I did love Itsukushima. For me it was arguably the most magical place in Japan – and certainly better than anything I saw in Tokyo or Osaka (only Kyoto’s temples can rival Itsukushima).
Yeah, it was definitely powerful to walk around the temple and the island itself. The deer definitely reminded me of Nara many years back. Really want to make it back to Kansai. Great places to be seen there.
Hey Duke,
Wow, those deer seem like they never eat and I bet that can be very surprising to those who aren’t expecting it but it’s a beautiful place. I’ve never been there myself but I can just image the experience. Thank you for sharing it with us.
~Adrienne
Thank you. It was definitely an awesome place to visit and I recommend it to anyone who can make it to Hiroshima.
Miyajima is without a doubt one of the more special places in Japan. If you’re in Hiroshima, you really mustn’t miss it! Great post!
Lovely photos and nicely described! Are you familiar with the local language here?
Hi Tuhin, thank you for the comment. I’m thankful to have spent a year studying in Tokyo many years ago and though my Japanese is a bit rusty, I could handle myself quite well:)